The Origin Of A Charming Red Grape

Syrah or Shiraz? Regardless of what you call it, it’s a fascinating red grape that produces tasty wines everywhere it is planted. In the past, there were scholars who believed that the name was derived from either Shiraz, a town in ancient Persia (today Iran), or the word “sirah,” which means “beautiful” in Persian. Contrary to those theories, some believed that Roman legions returned from Egypt carried the grape of Sicily. Others argue that the name may be rooted in the Latin word “syracusum,” which links it to the Sicilian town of Syracuse.
The reality is a bit different and maybe not as romantic. In 1998, researchers at the University of Davis in California and Montpellier in France determined that Syrah is the offspring of two obscure French grape varieties: Mondeuse Blanche from Savoie and Dureza from Ardèche. So, there is no Middle Eastern or Sicilian origin; the scientific evidence proves otherwise. However, the Syrah found a home in Italy in the 19th century, when Italian ampelographers and collectors imported and documented foreign grape varieties. Baron Antonio Mendola mentioned a “Syrah” in his 1868 catalog of Italian and foreign grapes. By the end of that century, the Syrah was present in many other Italian regions. Nowadays, Syrah is cultivated mainly in Sicily, followed by Tuscany. Other places where this grape is used are Lazio, Umbria, Calabria, Sardinia, Apulia, and even Northern areas, such as Veneto.

Giovanna Caruso

A Wine With A Mediterranean Character

“Although Syrah is an international variety, many of us consider it to be a Sicilian grape. We chose to plant it because it is more suitable for the hot temperatures and drought in this area than Nero d’Avola. To testify our connection with our land, we chose the Delia Nivolelli area, which is not far from Marsala, where there is our winery.” Giovanna Caruso is the fourth generation of Caruso& Minini, a winery appreciated for its wines made both with autochthonous grapes (such as Grillo, Zibibbo, Perricone, Frappato, Nero d’Avola) and international varieties (such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and Merlot). They are also renowned for being the first and so far the only winery cultivating Syrah in Delia Nivolelli DOC. “ This denomination is only claimed by us, and we are proud of it, as it demonstrates our close connection with this territory – Giovanna continues – We have been cultivating it since the beginning of our winery, and there are vines that are over 40 years old. Thanks to our sunshine, the grapes ripen perfectly, with fantastic aromatic richness and wonderful fruit sweetness.” Although Syrah is being grown also in other Italian areas, the Sicilian Syrah wines have a specific character, according to Giovanna Caruso: “In general, if compared to Syrahs from the Rhone Valley, or from Australia, the Sicilian Syrah shows off a softer fruity note. The flavor of French Syrahs is more austere and peppery than that of Australian Syrahs, which are more powerful and alcoholic. The Syrah in Sicily can achieve a great compromise between power and drinkability instead, due to its Mediterranean profile, which is warmer and more enchanting. In my opinion – the wine producer concludes – it was these factors that led Sicilian producers to bet on this variety. As for us, the ‘2016 Caruso & Minini Syrah Riserva Delia Nivolelli DOC’ is one of our most prized wines.” This wine is characterized by a manual harvest and two years of aging in French oak tonneaux. This way it acquires a complex and broad bouquet of ripe red fruits with distinct floral notes of wilted violet and peony, balanced with fine roundness on the palate that mellows its structure.

Wherever You Go, There Is A Syrah To Know

If you love a strong character, Feudo Disisa winery produces the Syrah ‘Adhara’ in the Monreale denomination. The same part of the region (South West Sicily) but a different winemaking process. In this case, the wine has been aged mainly in oak and steel. Nevertheless, the Mediterranean harmony is the same. The 2022 Feudo Disisa ‘Adhara’ Syrah Monreale DOC in the glass has an intense ruby-red color with violet nuances and flavors that recall cherry, licorice, and cocoa. It is round, balanced, and persistent in the mouth. The finish is smooth, with a pleasant aftertaste.
Although Italy is not traditionally known for growing Syrah, it does have several world-class Syrah wines that have received high praise from international wine critics.
In addition to Sicily, Tuscany is where some of the finest Syrah is being produced. Here, you can find an acclaimed biodynamic sample in 2021 Duemani “Suisassi” Syrah Rosso Costa Toscana IGP, by the Due Mani winery located in Castellina Marittima (province of Pisa). This Syrah displays at the nose a complex mix of notes of berries, exotic spices, karkadè, a refreshing hint of eucalyptus, and mineral nuances of slate. On the palate, it has creamy tannins and a long, mineral finish. If you are not in a hurry to uncork it, this wine can age and evolve very nicely. Another excellent Syrah wine comes from the deep North of the country: Val d’Aosta. In Aymavilles village the famous winery Les Crêtes owned by the Charrère family produces an excellent Syrah, appreciated for its freshness and minerality. The 2019 Les Crêtes “La Tour” Syrah DOP has been produced with grapes grown at 650m of altitude and aged in French oak for at least one year. In the glass, the wine displays a ruby color with garnet hues. The aroma is slightly spicy and toasty, with hints of berries, and the taste is fruity, complex, savory, and fresh. The finish is long with soft tannins. And what if someone suggested trying a Syrah from Veneto? In the region of Prosecco and Amarone, there is even room for this variety, which is flexible and adaptable to so different environments and climates. On the Colli Berici, not far from Vicenza, de’ Besi family owns their winery Punto Zero, where they produce red wines with a Bordeaux style. Their 2015 Punto Zero “Virgola” Syrah Rosso Veneto IGP benefited from a short period of withering of 20-30 days after the manual harvest: since withering the grapes is a traditional method quite common in the region for major red wines, this gives to the wine an unmistakable touch of Veneto. So, this Syrah unfolds at the nose with the scents of red and black berries, dark ripe cherries with a hint of chocolate, and even moss. But it doesn’t betray its essence, and reveals an amazing note of black pepper. In the mouth, it is warm and filling, rich with hints of plums, tobacco, and coffee powder. A remarkable Syrah that won’t disappoint a fan of French wine, either.

Credits to Elisabetta Tosi